> Hi Jamie,
> >Hi, I have a American Eskimo and pomeranian mix. The puppy is 11
> >months old and cute as can be. However, he does not understand how to
> >play gently. He is EXTREMELY hyper and very rough.
> Is it during play he's hyper, or all the time? It may be as simple as
> he being in need of more exercise,
Sorry helle. Incompetent trainers rely on excessive exercise to
control out of control behviors they cannot train, much like they
rely on crates.
> especially mental exercise.
That's more important than walking five miles a day to control behavior.
> Ot maybe he's getting too much?
Could be he gets "overtired" from playing. That's valid.
> You don't mention anything about it, so it's hard to tell.
I think we'll find the other instances of 'nipping' were objections
to being FORCED or CONFRONTED over minor behavior
problems. The evidence of that is our OP hasn't responded to
my posts, knowing he's got to admit to the facts as I see them,
and that goes against "common sense" of the majority who
call themselves 'experts,' including his veterinarian. So, that's
the state of the art. We hurt and kill dogs cause we're "expert"
trainers and true experts are screwballs cause they don't ***
shock crate hang and kill dogs to train them.
> At eight months he doesn't need much physical exercise, a couple of
> 20-30 minute long walks a day, preferably off leash or at least at his
> own pace allowing him to investigate, should be enough.
You mean do five miles of exercise a day to control out of control
behaviors you can't train, helle.
> Mental exercise may be something like 5 or so minutes 2-4 times a day.
My methods require 5 minutes every other day after the intitial training
of about an hour.
>Your dog will tell you how much is plenty.
I have a problem for trainers telling us their dogs will tell us what's
> Look below for suggestions on mentally stimulating games.
This dog isn't in need of GAMES helle, the OWNER is in need of
handling and training techniques.. You're barely capable of handling and
training a dog without causing any problems helle. That's good for our
> > He bites constantly and when you try and repremand him (in every
> > way possible),
Figger it out from here, helle. They're trying to FORCE CONTROL, and
that's what drives dogs and children OUT of control, helle. You know that,
don't you? BUT you DON'T know HOWE to address the problems.
> > he just thinks you're playing with him and continues to bite even
This is very EZ to fix.
> Good, you have figured it out! Reprimanding him is making him worse,
EXCELLENT! Now HOWE do we handle problems like this, helle?
> so you need to try something else.
EXACTLY! What??? You tell us huh, helle?
> How about if you turn your side to him, face away, raise your arm to
> cover your face and stand still.
Sounds like practice for the A Bomb.
> This makes it boring for him to jump up and down biting.
That's the least effective way of doing it and may reinforce the behavior.
> Once he calms down, you praise him but not so much that he gets
> e***d again.
Not quite, helle, but close. NOT close enough, but close for this group
of dog loving experts.
> At this point I would not give him any treats or start playing,
> because that way he may learn that the biting leads to something fun.
Well, not quite, but close enough for here.
> Instead, focus on keeping him calm for a few seconds, *then* have him do
> something he enjoys doing without getting too e***d. This last bit
> is to keep his mind off the rough play and on something more constructive.
You mean distract him so far from the "lesson" that you never extinguish
the behavior properly so you'll always have to deal with it like that.
The pup is coming over to BOND, helle. Ignoring the pup will be rejection.
> During this bit you can use treats.
And distract the dog too far from the lesson you was supposed to
>Whenever he gets too worked up, repeat the standing still as explained
Which should quicly teach the pup to go through this whole rigaramorole to
get a treat.
> >What can I do to help this puppy be the family dog that he is suppossed
> I can't figure out whether he gets too worked up during play started
> by you, or whether he gets worked up by something and starts playing
> rough because of that.
Well, I can't figure out what the heel difference it makes? Are you capable
of controling the dog's behaviors helle, OR NOT? Level with us.
> If it's during play started by you, you need to find less stressful
> games so that he _remains_ as calm as you need him to be.
Yes, avoiding the behavior would prevent but not train it. Perhaps the
dog will forget about it if we avoid it long enough???
> Avoid games that involve throwing, playing tug and play fighting with
That's absurd, helle.Proper handling and training techniques do not rely
on avoiding every day behaviors.
> Obviously, obedience exercises and tricks are great ways to allow the
> dog to have fun and use his brain without the stress.
Perhaps, that is if we don't start off with ***or pronged spiked pinch
***or shock collars and corretions to train the dog.
> Any type of search games that allow him to use his nose are great.
That's great fun...
> It may be as simple as tossing a handful of tiny treats or kibble on the
> let him spend some time searching.
Sounds terribly challenging!!!
> Hiding toys or treats around the house or outside is great.
O.K., if you say so.
> Clicker training (shaping: sort of like a hot/cold game) is pure problem
> solving and very concentration demanding work.
Oh. Like the Hot And Cold Exercise taught in your FREE copy of my
FREE Wits' End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE
> It requires that you learn how to do it, but once you do it's a lot of
> See www.clickersolutions.com for more on clicker training.
Is that the clicker training that's so effective that gary wilckox has come
with "DELAYED PUNISHMENT" to round off the rough edges, helle? Huh?
Is that the clicker training like liea and Cubbe RELY on when she's not
her pronged spiked pinch ***and shock devices to control her out of
control CLICKER trained dog who recently snapped at a child when they
walked into her SHOCK ZONE, helle? Is that the same clicker training
that leah used when Madigan bit her on her nose and on her finger? Is
that the same clicker training lying frosty dahl wrote about in "clicker
project fizzles???" Huh helle? Figger it out, your clicker training methods
do not effectively control out of control behaviors without weeks of
conditioning incompatible behaviors... the concept itself is more
than most of our readers have the intellect to master, given lying frosty
as prima fascia evidence for that. Take blankman and leah and liea to boot.
> If he gets worked up by something, maybe something that makes him
> insecure, and starts playing rough as a result, you can try to get
> whatever is troubling him under so much control he remains calm.
Doubletalk. You've hit the wall, helle. That's what happens when we
run outta ideas and information.
> Then you need to gradually introduce him to whatever is getting him worked
> up, but never so much at a time that he has time to get hyper/worked up.
Unless you was fixin to flood the behavior as is appropriate in some
> This way you are teaching him to deal with the situation by remaining
Right. That's the most imprtant part.
> As long as he's calm you can use treats, but I'd avoid stressing games
Sounds like you changed your mind from telling us to do games. Maybe you
"games" which rely on treats to train them?
> That's all :-)
Well, that was refreshing.
> I've tried to cover the most likely possibilities, but it's difficult with
so little information.
Yeah, that's HOWE COME I try to teach you, but you don't have the intellect
to deal with the caliber information I've got. I tried to take it slow so
able to follow the concept, but it scares you when you realize most of what
you've been taught is incorrect, so you refuse to learn.
> If you want more input, I suggest you write another post and tell us more
> about your dog and the problem.
What color is the dog, helle?
> Have fun with your dog,
Yes, fun. HOWE about some retriever training, that's always FUN!!!
Oh, hey? Lookey here whot I found:
"I don't see why anyone would want to ***or beat a dog,
or how any trainer could possibly get a good working dog by
making them unhapper, fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying
frosty dahl who continues:
"On the other extreme, the really hard dogs we have trained
require much more frequent and heavy application of
pressure (PAIN j.h.) to get the job done,
This is continued resistance to your increasing authority, and the
job is not done until it is overcome
Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it
yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress
to striking them more sharply
Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even
the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in
but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping
You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb
even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that
Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting
your will fades in importance.
CHUCK IT Under ITS Chin With That Ever Ready Right Hand, As it
catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch. When the dog is
digging out to
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