The dog is insane!! lick,bite, lick, bite

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The dog is insane!! lick,bite, lick, bite

Post by wax.. » Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:18:36

I've tried using the sound distraction technique to stop my dog's
***ing and scratching. But when I make the noise she doesn't stop the
activity. She is 13, certainly a little deaf, but she just doesn't
stop. I've used the can with pennies, clapping right next to her,
throwing a CD case on the floor,............ keeps on going.....

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The dog is insane!! lick,bite, lick, bite

Post by Jerry How » Thu, 18 Jan 2001 10:44:06

Hello Waxeez,


> I've tried using the sound distraction technique to
> stop my dog's***ing and scratching. But when I
> make the noise she doesn't stop the activity.

Are you praising for five to fif*** seconds after the sound?

> She is 13, certainly a little deaf, but she just doesn't
> stop. I've used the can with pennies, clapping right
> next to her, throwing a CD case on the floor,............
> keeps on going.....

O.K. Will she come when you call her? If can ask her to come after you've
made the sound and praise, even if you have to get up and leave the room as
you're continuing to praise her, that will accomplish what we want. You'll
only need to ask her to come and coax her to get moving just a few times,
before she'll be conditioned to the sound. Be sure to alway alternate the
sound from the previous direction from which it was sounded last.

If that's not clear, just ask. There's a particular technique, it's not just
making a sound and waiting for the dog to stop. The sound must IMMEDIATELY
be followed by prolonged praise.

Here's the basics. Ask if you need more help.


Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to
break any behavior. There are a number of things that
have to be considered when beginning this approach. A
few preliminary exercises in the Wits' End Dog Training
Method manual available at: will explain the basic
handling techniques you should learn. Using them will
insure that the method will work to a high degree of

The problem is that not many people understand how
to use the sound distraction and praise techniques
correctly, and do not know HOWE to use the come
command as a default, if the sound does not work on
occasion. When you are told these methods have been
tried and didn't work, rest assured that whomever
"tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not
"try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work,
the come command is to be used as a default, and a
new attempt at addressing the problem can begin.

I've heard a couple of the "experts" here saying they've
tried it, and it didn't work for them, or it made their dog
nervous. Those are usually the experts that ***and
shock dogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using
sound instead of *** or shocking... Many of them
have never read the techniques presented here, and
are using inappropriate or incorrect methods.

There are some people who do not follow directions
and get lousy results, and there are people who do not
allow the technique adequate repetition to be
successful. There is no excuse that these techniques
will not work if done correctly, they are a scientific

Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each time, but
that is not always possible. A
single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would
do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does
not happen twice in succession from the same point of
origin. That's why several penny cans are required, or a friend or family
member can be enlisted to clap their hands or snap their fingers, to create
another source of sound distraction. You cannot use the same penny can for
more than two occasions in succession. Once it's been tossed, it must remain
where it falls, till the exercise if finished.

The sound must always be accompanied with PROLONGED (5-15 seconds), non
physical praise. The sound must never occur from the same point of origin
twice in succession. The sound must be brief. Any
UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and
PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dogs know it was
not intended for them. When more than one dog is
present when using sound distractions and praise
techniques, all dogs present must receive praise with
direct eye contact so they will UNDERSTAND they
were not being addressed. The praise must continue
constantly for several seconds following any sound
cue to allow the thought process to be completed.

The behavior MUST be allowed or CAISED to be repeated and interrupted AGAIN
using sound and praise until the behavior is broken. And most
importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming
the behavior, you must praise him.

That's right. When the dog thinks about resuming the
behavior, if you praise him at that exact moment, the
previous DISTRACTIONS will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the
behavior will QUICKLY be extinguished.

That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers
here to understand. They want to make it happen, and
they interfere with the dog's thought process. The dog
will learn through the process of elimination of
alternative actions or behaviors. It ONLY takes a few minutes, and the
behavior is eliminated, rather than
repressed and seething to resume, as is the case with
physical or verbal corrections, confrontation, or
punishment "techniques."

The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist
on telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the
conditioning that has been established. Shouting at the
dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect.
What further complicates the process for the trainer, is
that they break the conditioning when they respond
with a different corrective technique out of a
reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming
"No!," or reaching out to grab the dog and physically
correcting the dog for a further instance of
malbehavior, rather than taking the moment to THINK
about the best way to address the problem, and
if necessary search for a can and follow through with
the appropriate sound and praise.

The process must be carried out using an alternate
source of sound for the next interruption. An associate
could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on
signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption.
We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative
malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks,
in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn.

Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog
no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are
becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or
competitor in the dog's mischief.

Using sound as a distraction must always be followed
by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise.
Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be
associated with us, as in voicing "no," or telling the dog to "stop it."

The behavior should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL INTERVENTION. We
want the behavior to
begin again, so that we may have another opportunity
to properly address the behavior with another sound
and praise.

That way, we can completely end a problem while the
dog is THINKING about it, and we are prepared to
address the issue before it becomes out of control. The
sound must never occur twice in a row from the same

In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of
the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace,
you'd praise him for five to fif*** seconds immediately
upon snapping your fingers.

The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next
attempt at chewing the shoelace, the sound of the
snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or
even from a friend assisting from across the room, from
a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of
sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged, non
physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking
about the behavior, or resumes it.

The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the
message across, and the dog will think about the
behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth
and last time... That split second
thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it
with a challenge of shouting
no, or physically removing the temptation.

That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior
and the praise it earns him, will validate the prior
interruptions of that behavior.The dog then needs to
test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be
dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will
usually make a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if
you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to do
that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace!
He must take that behavior to other instances to fully
extinguish his desire for the behavior.

The behavior will not be completely broken until he has
taken the process of elimination to the second, third,
and fourth opportunity to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may
need to repeat the process in
four completely different places.

That means that the worst behavior may need up to
sixty-four properly timed interruptions and praise.
Usually it happens much quicker than that.

Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress,
takes us out of the position of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate,
and allows the dog to
extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn't get
any satisfaction from it.

The other secret is giving the dog a payoff for every time they look at you.
Each time you notice eye
contact from your dog, you must praise him verbally,
to keep him always thinking of you and to prevent his
idle mind from doing the devils work.

Is it any wonder that the following sig file has
generated more complaints to my personal email than
any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:
If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that
you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn't be
doing them. If you have a dog trainer who tells you to
jerk your dog around, ***him, pinch his ears, or
twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish
him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate,
that the dog won't think of you as the punisher, that you've got to be
"firm," or that corrections are not
harmful, or if they can't train your dog to do what you
want, look for a trainer who knows HOWE.

Jerry Howe,
Wits' ...

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The dog is insane!! lick,bite, lick, bite

Post by Avrama Gingol » Thu, 18 Jan 2001 18:43:47

Have you tried taking her to the vet for an examination?  Skin disorders are
far from uncommon in elderly dogs.

avrama & baruch
the academic factor

<>the most beautiful dog in the world is the one who looks at you with love.


> I've tried using the sound distraction technique to stop my dog's
>***ing and scratching. But when I make the noise she doesn't stop the
> activity. She is 13, certainly a little deaf, but she just doesn't
> stop. I've used the can with pennies, clapping right next to her,
> throwing a CD case on the floor,............ keeps on going.....

> Sent via


The dog is insane!! lick,bite, lick, bite

Post by Lithe » Wed, 24 Jan 2001 02:46:40

A dog with kidney problems can develop uncontrollable itching skin.
Something about increased uric acid forming crystals in the skin that
irritate it. For about a year before my sister's shih tzu's death (from end
stage renal disease) we noticed 2 strange things.. little hard cysts on her
skin which could pop up anywhere, and an increasingly bad body odor,
probably from the constant***ing, sucking and chewing on the coat.  You
may want to ask your veterinarian for a BUN/Creatinine level to assess
kidney function. Even cheaper is a dipstick for urinary protein, which also
tends to get passed when the kidneys start to fail. By the time the kidneys
are passing protein regularly though, kidney disease is often advanced. You
may still have time to extend her life with special diets and other
measures. I know it seems like a harmless symptom to take her to the vet
for, but she is getting to the age where you have to think about her as an
old lady, who may be beginning to experience the problems old age brings.
Hoping for the best :)