Cattleyas help please

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Cattleyas help please

Post by rosevin » Mon, 07 Feb 2000 04:00:00



Two Cattleya's in different rooms;
1. tired Cattleya not well shrivelled bulbs.
new shoot turned black, now whole shoot is black and dry looking
what is it what do I do?
2. Cattleya very healthy looking good bulbs made two new shoots
which are now quite plump. Each new bulb has now got a nice long
sheath very flat green.. But one has turned pale yellow and now
has a dark browntip which seems to be expanding. What do I do
next?

My orchids are house plants, centrally heated, still being
watered, not fed, temperature range, 13 degrees C min to 17/ 20
degrees C day and evening.

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Cattleyas help please

Post by dave wei » Thu, 10 Feb 2000 04:00:00


Quote:

> Two Cattleya's in different rooms;
> 1. tired Cattleya not well shrivelled bulbs.
> new shoot turned black, now whole shoot is black and dry looking
> what is it what do I do?

Are you sure that the*shoot* turned black? It might be the sheath, which is the fine
paper-like coating around maturing bulbs. If it's just the sheath, then that indicates
that it might be preparing to bloom.

Quote:

> 2. Cattleya very healthy looking good bulbs made two new shoots
> which are now quite plump. Each new bulb has now got a nice long
> sheath very flat green.. But one has turned pale yellow and now
> has a dark browntip which seems to be expanding. What do I do
> next?

See above. Now that doesn't mean that you *don't* have a problem. But it might
just be the sheath turning colors. I've normally seen them generally turn black
uniformly but heck, this might be different. Also, I hope you aren't confusing the
sheath with the leaf. You might not be but that's what it sounds like from your
description.

Quote:
> My orchids are house plants, centrally heated, still being
> watered, not fed, temperature range, 13 degrees C min to 17/ 20
> degrees C day and evening.

Catt's resting phase is usually only a couple of months after blooming. If it's been
longer, you might want to consider starting half-strength fertilizing now. Also, you
might want to consider a larger daytime/nightime temp range. It's usually
recommended to have at least a 10 degree difference.