Moon's Graden

Early this spring, I planted 7 Pink Gumpo azaleas in my front yard.  The
azaleas appeared to be doing well as they grew rapidly and maintained a nice
green color and compact, full shape.  In the last month or so, they have
started dying one by one.  I see no visible pests or diseases.  They just
begin looking droopy, like they don't have enough water, and then rapidly
begin losing their leaves, starting with the lower branches left.  In about
two weeks, their dead.  Lack of water is not the problem as we
(Winston-Salem, NC) have had an abundance or rain and I have water them when
conditions have gotten dry.  What's going on?  Thanks in advance for any
help or advice.

Berob

Maybe a little MirAcid would help.

Bob
www.lds.org
I made me gardens and orchards, and I planted trees in them of all kind of
fruits: Ecclesiastes 2:5

I wish I knew, Berob.  We've just lost three big ones the same way -
sudden droopiness then gone, almost overnight.  My husband has used
Miracid faithfully, so our problem isn't related to that.  Do you
think we've had so much rain they've drowned?  I know they don't like
wet feet.  I hate to see lovely, well-established bushes die like that
without knowing the cause.  There was no prior sign of disease or
infestation.
- limey

There are several reasons why the newly planted azaleas die:
1. Too much water, the plants drawned.
2. Bury too deep. The top of the root should be above the soil.
3. The soil is too heavy. bad drainage could suffocate the roots or cause
root.
4. Root disease already in the soil.  There are soil drenching chemicals
available.
5. Rootball too tight. Azalea's roots are extremely fine, the rootball could
repel water when too pot bound or let dry out too much.
You should prepare the azalea bed with extra care. Break up the soil with a
hoe or a pick. Work the soil as deep as possible. It must be deeper than the
depth of the pot. Be sure to break up all the big lumps. Spread at least two
to three inches of organic matters over the entire bed and  mix everything
together. You can use humus and peat moss together or  just azalea mix.
Water the bed and leave it alone for a few days. Test the soil's pH, it
should be acidic. Break up the bottom of the rootball a bit so the roots
have imtimate contact with the new soil. The rootball should be at least a
quarter of an inch above the soil surface.  Press down the soil firmly
around the rootball. Drench the newly planted azaleas with the fungicide
once a month as a preventitive measur. If one azalea starts to die check for
problems right the way. Some synsatic fertilizers could make the soil too
acidic, so check the soil's pH before using them. Azaleas like a lot of
organic matters in the soil because they hold nutriens and acitify the soil
naturally. You can mulch the plants with azalea mix once a year. Be sure not
to cover the trunks. Feed azaleas during the growing season (spring and
summer).

Jerry Wang The Garden Guru