Watering

Description of your first forum.

Watering

Post by Steve » Wed, 10 Jun 2009 06:38:14



I just went out and ran lines for my garden.  I have about twelve rows, and
I put a bubbler on the end of each row.  I hoed furrows, ran water, and then
rehoed the high spots so it runs all along the 15' or so row.  Fiddiddled
here and there until I got the waterflow pretty good for a timed watering.

Back a bit.  I went to the store yesterday, and pressure reducers were $10
per.  I decided to go with bubblers, as I have a ton of them and PVC stuff
rather than the soaker hoses, and running all the adapters it takes to
change from PVC to black pipe.  I know that once they're set up, they're so
slick.

But, after running the lines and trying the flooding the ditches and lots of
hoeing, I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and go get all the
adapters to run black flex pipe down each row, and be sure.

Right now, with the bubblers, and two large oscillating sprinklers, it gets
watered pretty well.  Now I need to go plant stuff, and just see how it
goes, and make adjustments next year.

Do you prefer furrow watering, or black flex pipe?

Steve

 
 
 

Watering

Post by David Hare-Scot » Mon, 15 Jun 2009 09:25:23


Quote:

> I just went out and ran lines for my garden.  I have about twelve
> rows, and I put a bubbler on the end of each row.  I hoed furrows,
> ran water, and then rehoed the high spots so it runs all along the
> 15' or so row.  Fiddiddled here and there until I got the waterflow
> pretty good for a timed watering.
> Back a bit.  I went to the store yesterday, and pressure reducers
> were $10 per.  I decided to go with bubblers, as I have a ton of them
> and PVC stuff rather than the soaker hoses, and running all the
> adapters it takes to change from PVC to black pipe.  I know that once
> they're set up, they're so slick.

> But, after running the lines and trying the flooding the ditches and
> lots of hoeing, I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and go
> get all the adapters to run black flex pipe down each row, and be
> sure.
> Right now, with the bubblers, and two large oscillating sprinklers,
> it gets watered pretty well.  Now I need to go plant stuff, and just
> see how it goes, and make adjustments next year.

> Do you prefer furrow watering, or black flex pipe?

> Steve

Flood irrigation is rather wasteful, too much ends up other than where you
want it.  I prefer drippers, low sprayers or hand-held hoses.

David

 
 
 

Watering

Post by Steve » Wed, 17 Jun 2009 23:15:02


I'm a newbie.  I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty sacks of
amendments, including peat moss, and turkey ***based conditioner, and some
vermiculite.

I made rows that were as best I could that were level.  I ran a PVC line
with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type sprayers.  I
have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

This is the first season, and a learning one.  I feel that flooding the rows
may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.  I go out about
three times a day and spray so the top is moist.  I have some planted seeds
germinating, and some nursery plants going.  They look pretty good actually.
The melons look fantastic.

At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
emitter each few feet.  The attachment comes in the form of a barb that goes
into a black abs feed pipe.  You cut them to length and crimp the ends shut.

What is the best way to water?  Flood?  Spray?  Emitters?  Combination?
Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can do different things
from ground watering to overhead misting and spraying, and*** pots.
But for this year, I'd just like to get maximum yield, and learn more about
the process.

Input appreciated.

Steve

 
 
 

Watering

Post by Bill who putter » Wed, 17 Jun 2009 23:31:59



Quote:

> What is the best way to water?  Flood?  Spray?  Emitters?  Combination?
> Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can do different things
> from ground watering to overhead misting and spraying, and*** pots.
> But for this year, I'd just like to get maximum yield, and learn more about
> the process.

> Input appreciated.

> Steve

  I think  drip with mulch.  I use a drip hose.  Cheap and does the job
here.  I run about 6 50 foot lines  one  100 foot.  Got a  rain gauge
that transmit info though I usually  just look at the plant life for  
sadness.  This in  NJ USA not in drought. However I once mulched real
heavy and the summer was overly  wet and it is easy to put on but hard
to take water off.  

 Bill

--
Garden in shade zone 5 S Jersey USA

Music look for    Wim Mertens

 
 
 

Watering

Post by brooklyn » Wed, 17 Jun 2009 23:53:31



Quote:
> I'm a newbie.  I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty sacks of
> amendments, including peat moss, and turkey ***based conditioner, and
> some vermiculite.

> I made rows that were as best I could that were level.  I ran a PVC line
> with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type sprayers.  I
> have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

> This is the first season, and a learning one.  I feel that flooding the
> rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.  I go
> out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.  I have some
> planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going.  They look
> pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

> At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
> emitter each few feet.  The attachment comes in the form of a barb that
> goes into a black abs feed pipe.  You cut them to length and crimp the
> ends shut.

> What is the best way to water?  Flood?  Spray?  Emitters?  Combination?
> Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can do different things
> from ground watering to overhead misting and spraying, and*** pots.
> But for this year, I'd just like to get maximum yield, and learn more
> about the process.

> Input appreciated.

> Steve

You're no longer a newbie... you've been going on and on for months about
your fercocktah garden and especially about watering...  WTF don't you get
it over with already,***on it! LOL
 
 
 

Watering

Post by Bill » Thu, 18 Jun 2009 00:10:44



Quote:

> WTF don't you get
> it over with already,***on it! LOL

Shelly, your daughter still available for stage parties?
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death."  - Rachel Carson

http://www.moonsgarden.com/

http://www.moonsgarden.com/

 
 
 

Watering

Post by Bill » Thu, 18 Jun 2009 00:18:37



Quote:

> I'm a newbie.  I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty sacks of
> amendments, including peat moss, and turkey ***based conditioner, and some
> vermiculite.

> I made rows that were as best I could that were level.  I ran a PVC line
> with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type sprayers.  I
> have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

> This is the first season, and a learning one.  I feel that flooding the rows
> may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.  I go out about
> three times a day and spray so the top is moist.  I have some planted seeds
> germinating, and some nursery plants going.  They look pretty good actually.
> The melons look fantastic.

> At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
> emitter each few feet.  The attachment comes in the form of a barb that goes
> into a black abs feed pipe.  You cut them to length and crimp the ends shut.

> What is the best way to water?  Flood?  Spray?  Emitters?  Combination?
> Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can do different things
> from ground watering to overhead misting and spraying, and*** pots.
> But for this year, I'd just like to get maximum yield, and learn more about
> the process.

> Input appreciated.

> Steve

Irrigation is wasteful. Misting and spraying may be good for ornamentals
but will cover your tomatoes and cucurbita with mold and mildew by the
shortened end of your gardening season. Drip is the watering of
preference, along with a (bi?)weekly hand watering, just to stay in
contact with your plants.
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death."  - Rachel Carson

http://www.moonsgarden.com/

http://www.moonsgarden.com/

 
 
 

Watering

Post by Jim » Thu, 18 Jun 2009 03:16:21


Quote:


[....]

> > What is the best way to water?  

> weekly hand watering, just to stay in
> contact with your plants.

I recommend 2 two gallon jugs with sprinkler tips.  watering each
plant individually gives you the chance to inspect the plant and
do a some close hand weeding around each plant.

carrying water to each plant and only each plant reduces weed growth,
provides some good exercise and reduces the overall amount of water
required to produce the edibles.

http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/t/h/theplanter/garden2005.html
http://personalpages.bellsouth.net/t/h/theplanter/2007-gard.html

----
whoever said a job well done never needs redoing never weeded a garden...

 
 
 

Watering

Post by David Hare-Scot » Thu, 18 Jun 2009 10:01:24


Quote:

> I'm a newbie.  I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
> sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey ***based
> conditioner, and some vermiculite.

> I made rows that were as best I could that were level.  I ran a PVC
> line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
> sprayers.  I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

> This is the first season, and a learning one.  I feel that flooding
> the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
> I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.

This is not a good idea.  The water is needed at the roots not at the
surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which in
turn requires frequent watering.  Also it may encourage fungus on some
species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water and
time.  If you have that much time you would be much better off if you water
thoroughly by hand as required.

The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably be
something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
seasons.  Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near root
level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
conditions of high temperature and hot winds.  The exception is seedlings
that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may require
more frequent watering for a while.  If your soil is drying out too quickly
you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the organic content.

I

Quote:
> have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
> look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

> At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
> emitter each few feet.  The attachment comes in the form of a barb
> that goes into a black abs feed pipe.  You cut them to length and
> crimp the ends shut.
> What is the best way to water?  Flood?  Spray?  Emitters? Combination?
> Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
> do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
> spraying, and*** pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
> maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

> Input appreciated.

> Steve

Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to lower
humidity so don't raise it.  Misting is used to raise the humidity for
plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes common
veges.

Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops.  Hand watering with a
hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
extreme heat) just because it feels good.

I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding the
complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly asking the
same question over a short period makes people wonder if you are paying
attention.

David

 
 
 

Watering

Post by brooklyn » Thu, 18 Jun 2009 10:34:12



Quote:

>> I'm a newbie.  I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
>> sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey ***based
>> conditioner, and some vermiculite.

>> I made rows that were as best I could that were level.  I ran a PVC
>> line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
>> sprayers.  I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

>> This is the first season, and a learning one.  I feel that flooding
>> the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
>> I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.

> This is not a good idea.  The water is needed at the roots not at the
> surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which in
> turn requires frequent watering.  Also it may encourage fungus on some
> species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water and
> time.  If you have that much time you would be much better off if you
> water thoroughly by hand as required.

> The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably
> be something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
> seasons.  Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near
> root level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
> conditions of high temperature and hot winds.  The exception is seedlings
> that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may
> require more frequent watering for a while.  If your soil is drying out
> too quickly you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the
> organic content.

> I
>> have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
>> look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

>> At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
>> emitter each few feet.  The attachment comes in the form of a barb
>> that goes into a black abs feed pipe.  You cut them to length and
>> crimp the ends shut.
>> What is the best way to water?  Flood?  Spray?  Emitters? Combination?
>> Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
>> do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
>> spraying, and*** pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
>> maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

>> Input appreciated.

>> Steve

> Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
> Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
> situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to
> lower humidity so don't raise it.  Misting is used to raise the humidity
> for plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes common
> veges.

> Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
> gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops.  Hand watering with a
> hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
> extreme heat) just because it feels good.

> I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding
> the complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly
> asking the same question over a short period makes people wonder if you
> are paying attention.

> David

I seriously doubt he has any garden... so far he's shown us nothing...
John's garden is in the dreaming/trolling stage.
 
 
 

Watering

Post by Steve » Thu, 18 Jun 2009 15:11:27


Quote:

>> WTF don't you get
>> it over with already,***on it! LOL

You still around, you silly troll?  Get a life.
 
 
 

Watering

Post by Steve » Thu, 18 Jun 2009 15:22:59



Quote:

>> I'm a newbie.  I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
>> sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey ***based
>> conditioner, and some vermiculite.

>> I made rows that were as best I could that were level.  I ran a PVC
>> line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
>> sprayers.  I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

>> This is the first season, and a learning one.  I feel that flooding
>> the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
>> I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.

> This is not a good idea.  The water is needed at the roots not at the
> surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which in
> turn requires frequent watering.  Also it may encourage fungus on some
> species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water and
> time.  If you have that much time you would be much better off if you
> water thoroughly by hand as required.

> The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably
> be something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
> seasons.  Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near
> root level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
> conditions of high temperature and hot winds.  The exception is seedlings
> that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may
> require more frequent watering for a while.  If your soil is drying out
> too quickly you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the
> organic content.

> I
>> have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
>> look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

>> At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
>> emitter each few feet.  The attachment comes in the form of a barb
>> that goes into a black abs feed pipe.  You cut them to length and
>> crimp the ends shut.
>> What is the best way to water?  Flood?  Spray?  Emitters? Combination?
>> Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
>> do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
>> spraying, and*** pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
>> maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

>> Input appreciated.

>> Steve

> Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
> Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
> situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to
> lower humidity so don't raise it.  Misting is used to raise the humidity
> for plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes common
> veges.

> Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
> gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops.  Hand watering with a
> hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
> extreme heat) just because it feels good.

> I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding
> the complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly
> asking the same question over a short period makes people wonder if you
> are paying attention.

> David

I'm just working with what I have.  I have lots of pipes and connectors, and
such.  Had I started from scratch with nothing, I'm sure I would have a drip
system in place now.  I like to do things once and do it right.  This first
year is an experiment for two purposes.  One is for me to learn, and second
to show my wife who knows nothing about gardening that her ideas about just
sprinkling seeds and applying water is a little short of what is needed.

For me, next year will start with a thorough tilling of about 50 bags of
amendments, various meals that add nutrients, a new drip system of the
proper type, and then a greenhouse to cap it all off.

Sometimes, it's rule by benevolent dictatorship, and the knowing proletariat
vote is not counted.  I had a hell of a time getting pressure reducers just
to feed the small lines I already had.

"What's the difference?" was the common question.

"Well, one will work, and one won't", was the answer delivered to deaf ears
that would only consider cost, and nothing that went contrary to rumor,
innuendo, or what she heard on HDTV or Oprah.

Each year should be better, especially when spectacular failures are allowed
to happen to all knowing persons.

"I told you so" is never spoken, but conveyed with eye contact.

Just like planting a eucalyptus tree too close to the house.  But I digress.
The tree should be sawn down within one year.

And then there's the roots and stump ...........................

sigh

Steve

 
 
 

Watering

Post by David Hare-Scot » Thu, 18 Jun 2009 15:59:41


Quote:

> Just like planting a eucalyptus tree too close to the house.  But I
> digress. The tree should be sawn down within one year.

> And then there's the roots and stump ...........................

What species?  Do you know its likely ultimate size?  Do you know its
propensity to drop branches (even in calm weather)?  I have references that
will tell you these things and provide some data about the chances of it
destroying your roof if you are interested.  There is plenty of newsreel
footage taken every time there is a good storm round here showing what
eucalypts do to houses - perhaps SWMBO could view some.

David

 
 
 

Watering

Post by Bill » Thu, 18 Jun 2009 16:11:40



Quote:




> >> I'm a newbie.  I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
> >> sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey ***based
> >> conditioner, and some vermiculite.

> >> I made rows that were as best I could that were level.  I ran a PVC
> >> line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
> >> sprayers.  I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

> >> This is the first season, and a learning one.  I feel that flooding
> >> the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
> >> I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.

> > This is not a good idea.  The water is needed at the roots not at the
> > surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which in
> > turn requires frequent watering.  Also it may encourage fungus on some
> > species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water and
> > time.  If you have that much time you would be much better off if you
> > water thoroughly by hand as required.

> > The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably
> > be something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
> > seasons.  Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near
> > root level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
> > conditions of high temperature and hot winds.  The exception is seedlings
> > that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may
> > require more frequent watering for a while.  If your soil is drying out
> > too quickly you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the
> > organic content.

> > I
> >> have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
> >> look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

> >> At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
> >> emitter each few feet.  The attachment comes in the form of a barb
> >> that goes into a black abs feed pipe.  You cut them to length and
> >> crimp the ends shut.
> >> What is the best way to water?  Flood?  Spray?  Emitters? Combination?
> >> Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
> >> do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
> >> spraying, and*** pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
> >> maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

> >> Input appreciated.

> >> Steve

> > Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
> > Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
> > situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to
> > lower humidity so don't raise it.  Misting is used to raise the humidity
> > for plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes common
> > veges.

> > Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
> > gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops.  Hand watering with a
> > hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
> > extreme heat) just because it feels good.

> > I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding
> > the complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly
> > asking the same question over a short period makes people wonder if you
> > are paying attention.

> > David

> I'm just working with what I have.  I have lots of pipes and connectors, and
> such.  Had I started from scratch with nothing, I'm sure I would have a drip
> system in place now.  I like to do things once and do it right.  This first
> year is an experiment for two purposes.  One is for me to learn, and second
> to show my wife who knows nothing about gardening that her ideas about just
> sprinkling seeds and applying water is a little short of what is needed.

> For me, next year will start with a thorough tilling of about 50 bags of
> amendments, various meals that add nutrients, a new drip system of the
> proper type, and then a greenhouse to cap it all off.

> Sometimes, it's rule by benevolent dictatorship, and the knowing proletariat
> vote is not counted.  I had a hell of a time getting pressure reducers just
> to feed the small lines I already had.

> "What's the difference?" was the common question.

> "Well, one will work, and one won't", was the answer delivered to deaf ears
> that would only consider cost, and nothing that went contrary to rumor,
> innuendo, or what she heard on HDTV or Oprah.

> Each year should be better, especially when spectacular failures are allowed
> to happen to all knowing persons.

> "I told you so" is never spoken, but conveyed with eye contact.

> Just like planting a eucalyptus tree too close to the house.  But I digress.
> The tree should be sawn down within one year.

> And then there's the roots and stump ...........................

> sigh

> Steve

You know you could save a lot in amendments by planting "green manure"
as a cover crop. Rye to condition the soil and legumes to pump nitrogen
into it. Stump might even make a nice place to sit, and look over your
garden.
--

- Billy
"For the first time in the history of the world, every human being
is now subjected to contact with dangerous chemicals, from the
moment of conception until death."  - Rachel Carson

http://www.moonsgarden.com/

http://www.moonsgarden.com/

 
 
 

Watering

Post by brooklyn » Thu, 18 Jun 2009 21:37:35



Quote:




>>> I'm a newbie.  I got my 25x28 plot all tilled, added about twenty
>>> sacks of amendments, including peat moss, and turkey ***based
>>> conditioner, and some vermiculite.

>>> I made rows that were as best I could that were level.  I ran a PVC
>>> line with bubblers to each trench, and I have two rain bird type
>>> sprayers.  I have a few low pressure emitter lines on some tomatos.

>>> This is the first season, and a learning one.  I feel that flooding
>>> the rows may not be getting water to the top of the dirt on the rows.
>>> I go out about three times a day and spray so the top is moist.

>> This is not a good idea.  The water is needed at the roots not at the
>> surface. Frequent light watering encourages shallow root growth - which
>> in turn requires frequent watering.  Also it may encourage fungus on some
>> species (eg tomatoes and curcurbits) and generally is a waste of water
>> and time.  If you have that much time you would be much better off if you
>> water thoroughly by hand as required.

>> The frequency depends on your soil and the weather but it would probably
>> be something like once or twice a week in summer and less in the cooler
>> seasons.  Test the soil with your fingers if the soil is damp down near
>> root level (say 4in) you don't need to water unless expecting very drying
>> conditions of high temperature and hot winds.  The exception is seedlings
>> that have only shallow root systems or are not established which may
>> require more frequent watering for a while.  If your soil is drying out
>> too quickly you need firstly to mulch it and over time to build up the
>> organic content.

>> I
>>> have some planted seeds germinating, and some nursery plants going. They
>>> look pretty good actually. The melons look fantastic.

>>> At the nursery, they sell a flat ribbon type watering pipe that has an
>>> emitter each few feet.  The attachment comes in the form of a barb
>>> that goes into a black abs feed pipe.  You cut them to length and
>>> crimp the ends shut.
>>> What is the best way to water?  Flood?  Spray?  Emitters? Combination?
>>> Next year, we will probably have a greenhouse, and can
>>> do different things from ground watering to overhead misting and
>>> spraying, and*** pots. But for this year, I'd just like to get
>>> maximum yield, and learn more about the process.

>>> Input appreciated.

>>> Steve

>> Flood is the most wastefull method followed by fixed overhead sprayers.
>> Vegetables don't need misting, it only supports fungus, in fact in some
>> situations the garden may be arranged to encourage air circulation to
>> lower humidity so don't raise it.  Misting is used to raise the humidity
>> for plants that came from the tropics or rainforests which excludes
>> common veges.

>> Drippers or emitters are the most efficient method if you can afford the
>> gear and can manage the pipes around annual crops.  Hand watering with a
>> hose is good if you can afford the time but don't do it daily (except in
>> extreme heat) just because it feels good.

>> I would suggest that you have plenty to learn for a while without adding
>> the complexity of a greenhouse. You asked all this before, repeatedly
>> asking the same question over a short period makes people wonder if you
>> are paying attention.

>> David

> I'm just working with what I have.  I have lots of pipes and connectors,
> and such.  Had I started from scratch with nothing, I'm sure I would have
> a drip system in place now.  I like to do things once and do it right.
> This first year is an experiment for two purposes.  One is for me to
> learn, and second to show my wife who knows nothing about gardening that
> her ideas about just sprinkling seeds and applying water is a little short
> of what is needed.

> For me, next year will start with a thorough tilling of about 50 bags of
> amendments, various meals that add nutrients, a new drip system of the
> proper type, and then a greenhouse to cap it all off.

> Sometimes, it's rule by benevolent dictatorship, and the knowing
> proletariat vote is not counted.  I had a hell of a time getting pressure
> reducers just to feed the small lines I already had.

> "What's the difference?" was the common question.

> "Well, one will work, and one won't", was the answer delivered to deaf
> ears that would only consider cost, and nothing that went contrary to
> rumor, innuendo, or what she heard on HDTV or Oprah.

> Each year should be better, especially when spectacular failures are
> allowed to happen to all knowing persons.

> "I told you so" is never spoken, but conveyed with eye contact.

> Just like planting a eucalyptus tree too close to the house.  But I
> digress. The tree should be sawn down within one year.

> And then there's the roots and stump ...........................

> sigh

> Steve

Your wife knows much more about gardening, I bet she can hardly wait to
plant you! hehe