The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

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The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by PSC-C » Wed, 24 Mar 1999 04:00:00



After battling weeds as tall as my irises last  summer,  I'm ready to
mulch my mixed perennial border.  But... how does one deal with mulch?

First, should I wait until I recognize what's growing and then mulch
around it, or must I redo the whole border?

My border is very young (read:  sparse).  Will mulch let my plants
expand and multiply?

I read in an earlier message (from Dan Sterner) that the mulch can be
removed in the fall, so that the soil will warm up more quickly in the
spring.  Am I right in assuming that some types (i.e. leaves, grass
clippings, etc.) could be tilled under? How does one do that without
disturbing the perennials?

And, as a matter of fact, how DOES one amend a perennial bed without
disturbing the flowers? My experience is limited to annuals, and
double-digging seems like a bad idea for a perennial bed.

Please help!

Confused in Ottawa (Zone 4b)

 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by m& » Wed, 24 Mar 1999 04:00:00


Quote:

>After battling weeds as tall as my irises last  summer,  I'm ready to
>mulch my mixed perennial border.  But... how does one deal with mulch?

>First, should I wait until I recognize what's growing and then mulch
>around it, or must I redo the whole border?

I add mulch every year to my perennial beds and I usually wait for
things to emerge.  I weed first, then fluff the existing mulch, and
add more to freshen it up.  So no, you do not have to redo the whole
border unless you want to, anyway.

Quote:

>My border is very young (read:  sparse).  Will mulch let my plants
>expand and multiply?

Mulch feeds the organisms in the soil.  Microbes and
macrobes...beneficial fungi, bacteria, bacterium...and worms.  In that
regard, yes, mulch will certainly help expand and multiply your
plants.

Quote:

>I read in an earlier message (from Dan Sterner) that the mulch can be
>removed in the fall, so that the soil will warm up more quickly in the
>spring.

I don't know that Dan said that, but I would correct that statement to
read; mulch can be pulled back in spring so soil will warm up more
quickly.  But, nobody does this pulling back of mulch in the forest,
and the trees leaf out pretty much on schedule.  If you warm the soil
too early, you are forcing plants to emerge, then if you get a late
frost, you can lose them. So, I would strongly weigh whether or not I
chose to move mulch back to force earlier growth.

 Am I right in assuming that some types (i.e. leaves, grass

Quote:
>clippings, etc.) could be tilled under? How does one do that without
>disturbing the perennials?

You don't have to till any of it under.  Simply start a compost pile,
or look up the term "sheet composting."  Either way, the worms will
drag the organic matter down into soil for you.  For this reason I do
not recommend the use of these landscape fabrics between soils and the
mulch layer.  It prevents worms from carrying down the mulches, which
feed the soil, which feed the plants.

Quote:

>And, as a matter of fact, how DOES one amend a perennial bed without
>disturbing the flowers? My experience is limited to annuals, and
>double-digging seems like a bad idea for a perennial bed.

>Please help!

>Confused in Ottawa (Zone 4b)

Use partially finished or completely finished compost as your first
layer of mulch. Gently rake it into the top inch of soil.  Most
plants, including trees have their feeder roots near the surface of
soil.  This is another reason why mulches are beneficial.  It will
keep the soil moist and cool in heat of summer so those feeder roots
do not get too hot or dry.  You can use many types of mulch, but
shredded native hardwood seems to last longest, and does not matt down
or float away in heavy rains.  If you still have confusion, please
feel free to ask more questions.  I hope I helped.

Victoria

 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by grdnga » Thu, 25 Mar 1999 04:00:00


Quote:

>  But... how does one deal with mulch?

> And, as a matter of fact, how DOES one amend a perennial bed without
> disturbing the flowers? My experience is limited to annuals, and
> double-digging seems like a bad idea for a perennial bed.

> Please help!

I apply mulch twice yearly to my mixed perennial and shrub beds, in spring and
fall. Mulch helps to retain moisture and retards weed growth and protects
against temperature extremes, as well as having the advantage of making things
look very neat and tidy. In the spring, after the soil warms, I gently work in
the fall mulch by cultivating around the existing plants - the organic matter
from the mulch will then find its way down into the soil. I then apply a top
dressing of new mulch for the growing season. I do the same thing in the fall.
It is not necessary to double dig if you follow this procedure *once you have
already prepared your planting beds properly to begin with*!

The mulch I use is a combination of composted manure mixed with sawdust and sand
- very light and fluffy, lots of organics and totally free of weeds. Not all
mulches will give you the same amount of organics, in which case you may need to
apply compost in much the same manner - gently working it into the soil around
your plants. Hope this helps.

Pam - gardengal

 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by Nancy Millia » Thu, 25 Mar 1999 04:00:00


Is the sawdust composted?  I've heard that wood products rob nitrogen to
break down so I've always been leary of using them as soil conditioner or
mulches.   I'd sure like to know if they really steal it away from the plants
or get it the manure you mix with it.  Anyone know?

Thanks!

Nancy M.  


Quote:
>The mulch I use is a combination of composted manure mixed with sawdust and
sa
>nd
>- very light and fluffy, lots of organics and totally free of weeds. Not all

 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by m& » Thu, 25 Mar 1999 04:00:00


If you place a mulch of wood, or sawdust, or any other carbon material
on top of the soil as a mulch, it will NOT, repeat NOT STEAL nitrogen
from the soil.  If you bury this same material, it WILL use the
nitrogen in the soil.  The mulches I make up consist of horse
manure/urine, mixed with their shaved pine bedding from the stalls,
shredded leaves of all manner, and some wood chips.  I compost this
for several months, and though it is still large chunks, it is mostly
decomposed enough to be slow release and non burning.  It is partially
finished compost, and it is my favorite of all the mulches.  I will
post photos of my Garden this year, which is all certified organic.

Victoria



Quote:
>Is the sawdust composted?  I've heard that wood products rob nitrogen to
>break down so I've always been leary of using them as soil conditioner or
>mulches.   I'd sure like to know if they really steal it away from the plants
>or get it the manure you mix with it.  Anyone know?

>Thanks!

>Nancy M.  


>>The mulch I use is a combination of composted manure mixed with sawdust and
>sa
>>nd
>>- very light and fluffy, lots of organics and totally free of weeds. Not all

 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by grdnga » Thu, 25 Mar 1999 04:00:00


Quote:

> Is the sawdust composted?  I've heard that wood products rob nitrogen to
> break down so I've always been leary of using them as soil conditioner or
> mulches.   I'd sure like to know if they really steal it away from the plants
> or get it the manure you mix with it.  Anyone know?

> Thanks!

> Nancy M.

No, the sawdust is not composted per se, but it is incorprated into the composted
manure and then that sits around in a huge pile until it is scooped up and dumped
at someone's garden, so I assume some additional composting takes place during
that time.....Also, there is a proportion of about three part manure to one each
of the sawdust and sand, so it is not present in huge volume and the manure
provides the nitrogen to replace anything that may be converted during the
decomposition of the sawdust.

I've used this product for a number of years and my friends always comment on how
large and lush my plants are, so it must be working well. BTW, I seldom use any
additional fertilizer, except for foliar spray during the peak of the season.

Pam - gardengal

 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by Dan Stern » Mon, 29 Mar 1999 04:00:00


Quote:

>After battling weeds as tall as my irises last  summer,  I'm ready to
>mulch my mixed perennial border.  But... how does one deal with mulch?

>First, should I wait until I recognize what's growing and then mulch
>around it, or must I redo the whole border?

>My border is very young (read:  sparse).  Will mulch let my plants
>expand and multiply?

>I read in an earlier message (from Dan Sterner) that the mulch can be
>removed in the fall, so that the soil will warm up more quickly in the
>spring.  Am I right in assuming that some types (i.e. leaves, grass
>clippings, etc.) could be tilled under? How does one do that without
>disturbing the perennials?

To correct that, I think you misread what I said. To quote from the
message...
Like most things, it depends. If it's a mulch around foundation plantings
or another permanent location, you shouldn't have to remove it unless you
want to speed up the soil warming process a bit, but for that I'd wait
till it's a bit warmer. If the mulch is on a very shallow rooted tree or
whatever, you probably should at least loosen it to avoid the roots trying
to grow into the mulch layer. Some people like to replace it with fresh
mulch in that circumstance, but you probably don't have to. On a vegetable
or flower garden you'll get a jump on the year if you do remove it so the
soil can warm. Same caveat about waiting till it's warmer for that though.

To make sure that's clear, you leave it mulched *till* it starts to warm,
then remove it if you want to speed the soil warming process. Don't leave
the soil exposed through the winter.

Quote:
>And, as a matter of fact, how DOES one amend a perennial bed without
>disturbing the flowers? My experience is limited to annuals, and
>double-digging seems like a bad idea for a perennial bed.

What I do is just scratch compost, manure, and whatever else I am adding
into the top inch or so of soil then just cover with mulch and let the
worms carry it into the root zone. That's not a good method for fast
results such as you'd want in a vegetable garden, but it works fine for
borders and such.
 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by Dan Stern » Mon, 29 Mar 1999 04:00:00


New ideas I won't argue with a bit, they are worth playing with... the
idea that I suggested to leave bare soil through the winter was worth a
comment to argue it ;)

If you could offer a source for that, I'd love to see whatever info is
available. Soil temps at planting time is something I've been playing with
for the last couple of years, and ahead of schedule for Central Texas I
have fruit setting on Brandywine, Sungold, and First Lady right now. It
was a warm spring, and soil temps didn't agree with common wisdom.

On Mon, 29 Mar 1999 00:48:24 GMT, "Don & Jeanne Chapman"

Quote:

>Dan - I know this is "common wisdom" - removing the mulch cover so soil can
>warm up quicker, but I was very surprised last year to discover that the
>soil was warmer under a 4-inch layer of mulch than was adjoining bare soil.
> I measured with a digital thermometer (like a meat probe), and there was
>six degrees difference.

>My theory is that the mulch serves as a thermal blanket, holding in heat
>better overnight.

>Not sure this will be true everywhere, but it sure opened my eyes.  Had to
>measure over and over at different points before I believed it.

>You might try taking some temps some time when you have a good comparison
>situation.


>Chappy's Power Organics
>3200 Corte Malpaso, #107
>Camarillo CA 93012
>Info & Orders <http://www.bio-organics.com>

 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by Don & Jeanne Chapma » Tue, 30 Mar 1999 04:00:00




Quote:
> To make sure that's clear, you leave it mulched *till* it starts to warm,
> then remove it if you want to speed the soil warming process. Don't leave
> the soil exposed through the winter.

Dan - I know this is "common wisdom" - removing the mulch cover so soil can
warm up quicker, but I was very surprised last year to discover that the
soil was warmer under a 4-inch layer of mulch than was adjoining bare soil.
 I measured with a digital thermometer (like a meat probe), and there was
six degrees difference.

My theory is that the mulch serves as a thermal blanket, holding in heat
better overnight.

Not sure this will be true everywhere, but it sure opened my eyes.  Had to
measure over and over at different points before I believed it.

You might try taking some temps some time when you have a good comparison
situation.


Chappy's Power Organics
3200 Corte Malpaso, #107
Camarillo CA 93012
Info & Orders <http://www.bio-organics.com>

 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by Pat Kiewi » Tue, 30 Mar 1999 04:00:00



Quote:



>> To make sure that's clear, you leave it mulched *till* it starts to warm,
>> then remove it if you want to speed the soil warming process. Don't leave
>> the soil exposed through the winter.

>Dan - I know this is "common wisdom" - removing the mulch cover so soil can
>warm up quicker, but I was very surprised last year to discover that the
>soil was warmer under a 4-inch layer of mulch than was adjoining bare soil.
> I measured with a digital thermometer (like a meat probe), and there was
>six degrees difference.

On the other hand, here in Michigan I've done the same experiment and found
the unmulched beds were significantly warmer in early spring.  Unmulched areas
can be thawed completely while areas under heavy mulch are still stiff with
frost.  This can be a good thing, if you want to delay your asparagus from
emerging while frosts and freezes still threaten, and a bad thing if you
are trying to get your peas in the ground.

--
Pat in Plymouth MI

"The generation of random numbers is too important to be left to chance."
Robert R. Coveyou
******************NOTICE******************************
To reach my personal mailbox, put the letter
'p' in front of the 'kiewicz' in my e-mail address

 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by m& » Tue, 30 Mar 1999 04:00:00


Actually Don, this is not only due to the thermal blanketing, but it
is primarily due to the amount of microbial activity in the soil.
When you remove the top layer of mulch, the microbes move to the part
which is still covered.  It is their movement, and energy which can
warm the soil up to 8 degrees higher than bare soil.  For this reason,
the organic  method allows gardeners in cold or warm climates alike to
grow far more varieties than conventional methods.  Reason being, the
energy in the soil and it's ability to keep it warmer, OR cooler when
the heat arrives.  Mulch is one of (if not THE) MOST important parts
of a vibrant healthy garden. Shredded leaves is by far superior than
most other mulches, but I found partially finished compost, with
identifiable chunks of material, to be the best.  It is the most
natural in any event.  It provides the most air, and nutrition to the
microbes and plants that I have found.

Victoria

On Mon, 29 Mar 1999 00:48:24 GMT, "Don & Jeanne Chapman"

Quote:

>Dan - I know this is "common wisdom" - removing the mulch cover so soil can
>warm up quicker, but I was very surprised last year to discover that the
>soil was warmer under a 4-inch layer of mulch than was adjoining bare soil.
> I measured with a digital thermometer (like a meat probe), and there was
>six degrees difference.

>My theory is that the mulch serves as a thermal blanket, holding in heat
>better overnight.

>Not sure this will be true everywhere, but it sure opened my eyes.  Had to
>measure over and over at different points before I believed it.

>You might try taking some temps some time when you have a good comparison
>situation.


>Chappy's Power Organics
>3200 Corte Malpaso, #107
>Camarillo CA 93012
>Info & Orders <http://www.bio-organics.com>

 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by NAearthM » Tue, 30 Mar 1999 04:00:00


          If I do not have my own compost, what should I aks for at the
nursery? I have compost that is from cow manure that I add to the soil but I
don't think i can use it as a mulch because i read on here that it can't touch
foliage.
          Thanks!
Caryn in nY zone 7
          "Come into my garden, my flowers want to meet you!"
 
 
 

The ins and out of mulch (from a newbie)

Post by m& » Wed, 31 Mar 1999 04:00:00


Plain composted manure is too high in nitrogen.  Ask the nursery if
they know anyone in your area who sells compost by the yard.  It is
much cheaper than buying it in bags.  

Victoria



Quote:
>          If I do not have my own compost, what should I aks for at the
>nursery? I have compost that is from cow manure that I add to the soil but I
>don't think i can use it as a mulch because i read on here that it can't touch
>foliage.
>          Thanks!
>Caryn in nY zone 7
>          "Come into my garden, my flowers want to meet you!"