Moon's Graden

Archive-name: pets/ferret-faq/part1
Last-modified: 26 Feb 1997
Posting-Frequency: monthly (around the 20th)
Version: 3.1.1
URL: http://www.moonsgarden.com/:8080/users/pgreene/central.html

FERRET FAQ (part 1 of 5) -- ABOUT FERRETS AND THIS FAQ

Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!

This document is copyright 1994-1996 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section
0.5 (in Part 1, About Ferrets and This FAQ) for authorship information
and redistribution rights.  In short, you can give it away, but you
can't charge for it or include it in any for-profit work without
permission.

The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
wherever you obtained this one.  Most people will want to look at
parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5.  A complete table of
contents for all five files is given in Part 1.  Please at least read
section 0 in Part 1, About this FAQ.  In addition, there are separate
FAQ's for several common ferret diseases.  Information about those is
given in section [1.1].

Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file.  I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THESE FILES

PART 1: ABOUT FERRETS AND THIS FAQ

0. *** About this FAQ ***

   (0.1) Notes on formatting
   (0.2) Where to get this FAQ
   (0.3) Goal of this FAQ
   (0.4) Credits and editor's notes
   (0.5) Ferret FAQ copyright and redistribution information

1. *** Where to get more information ***

   (1.1) Is there a shorter FAQ to hand out at meetings?  Are there
         FAQs for particular diseases?
   (1.2) How can I find a ferret breeder/shelter/vet/catalog?
   (1.3) What mailing lists are there, and how do I join?
   (1.4) What about interactive online chats?
   (1.5) Where can I find pictures or clip-art of ferrets online?
   (1.6) Is there any other information available online?
   (1.7) What are some of the books available?

2. *** Revision history of these files ***

   (2.1) Revision history

3. *** Introduction to ferrets ***

   (3.1) What are ferrets?  Do they make good pets?
   (3.2) Are ferrets wild?  Why are there ferret permits?
   (3.3) Are ferrets legal where I live?  Do I need a license?
   (3.4) I'm allergic to cats.  Will I be allergic to ferrets?
   (3.5) How much do ferrets cost?
   (3.6) Do ferrets smell bad?  What can I do about it?
   (3.7) Is a ferret a good pet for a child?
   (3.8) What are the different ferret colors?
   (3.9) What do you call a ferret male/female/baby/group?
   (3.10) How can I help the ferret community?

Part 2: FERRET CARE

4. *** Getting a pet ferret ***

   (4.1) Which color is the best?  Male or female?  What age?
   (4.2) How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?
   (4.3) Where can I get a pet ferret?  What should I look for?
   (4.4) What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear?  What's
         the deal with Marshall Farms?
   (4.5) How do I introduce a new ferret to my established one(s)?
   (4.6) Will my ferret get along with my other pets?

5. *** Getting ready for your ferret ***

   (5.1) How can I best ferretproof my home?  What do I need to
         worry about?
   (5.2) How can I protect my carpet, plants, or couch?
   (5.3) What will I need to take care of my new ferret?
   (5.4) Do I need a cage?  Where can I get one?  How should I set it up?
   (5.5) Any suggestions on toys?
   (5.6) What kind of collar/bell/tag/leash should I use?

6. *** Ferret supplies ***

   (6.1) What should I feed my ferret?
   (6.2) Should I give my ferret any supplements?
   (6.3) What are good treats?
   (6.4) What kind of litter should I use?
   (6.5) Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?

Part 3: TRAINING AND BEHAVIOR

7. *** Basic ferret care and training ***

   (7.1) How do I train my pet not to nip?
   (7.2) I'm having problems litter-training.  What do I do?
   (7.3) How can I stop my ferret from digging in his food or water?
   (7.4) Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping?

8. *** Things ferrets say and do ***

   (8.1) What games do ferrets like to play?
   (8.2) Can I teach my ferret tricks?  How?
   (8.3) My ferret trembles a lot.  Is that normal?
   (8.4) My ferret is losing hair!
   (8.5) Is he really just asleep?
   (8.6) What does such-and-such a noise mean?
   (8.7) What else should I probably not worry about?
   (8.8) Do ferrets travel well?
   (8.9) Help!  My ferret is lost!

Part 4: HEALTH CARE

9. *** Basic health care ***

   (9.1) Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting? Declawing?
   (9.2) What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?
   (9.3) Can I vaccinate my own ferrets?
   (9.4) What kind of checkups should my ferret be having?
   (9.5) What should I look for when I check over my ferret myself?
   (9.6) Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems?
   (9.7) How do I contact Dr. Williams?  I hear he'll help with diagnoses.

10. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

   (10.1) What warning signs of disease should I look for?
   (10.2) My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days.  What's wrong?
   (10.3) My ferret is going bald (tail only or all over).
   (10.4) What are these little (black oily)/(red waxy)/(orange crusty)
          spots on my ferret's tail/skin?
   (10.5) How well do ferrets handle heat?  What about cold?
   (10.6) How can I get rid of these fleas?
   (10.7) How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites?  What do I do about them?
   (10.8) Do I need to worry about heartworms?

Part 5: MEDICAL OVERVIEW

11. *** Common health problems ***

   (11.1) Common diseases in ferrets
   (11.2) Overview of common health problems
   (11.2.1) Noninfectious
   (11.2.2) Parasitic health problems
   (11.2.3) Infectious diseases
   (11.2.4) Neoplasia (Cancer)

12. *** General medical information ***

   (12.1) What are normal body temperature, *** test results, etc.?
   (12.2) What tests might my vet want to run, and why?
   (12.3) What anesthetic should my vet be using?
   (12.4) Do I need to worry about toxoplasmosis?
   (12.5) How do I care for my sick or recovering ferret?
   (12.6) My ferret won't eat.  What should I do?
   (12.7) What's Duck Soup?  Anyone have a recipe?

13. *** Medical reference material ***

   (13.1) What books can I get or recommend to my vet?
   (13.2) Are there any other useful references?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

0. *** About this FAQ ***

------------------------------

Subject: (0.1) Notes on formatting

The answers in this file are given in a "digest format" which should
make it easier for you to scan through it for the information you want.
Each question begins with a line of hyphens, followed by its number and
the question itself, as given in the Table of Contents above.  In many
newsreaders, including rn, trn, and strn, you can jump from one
question to the next by hitting CONTROL-G.  You can also look for a
particular answer by searching for its number or for words from the
question.

Cross-references to other questions are in square brackets; for
example, [1.2] means that more information may be found in section
1.2.

------------------------------

Subject: (0.2) Where to get this FAQ

This FAQ is posted around the 20th of each month to the rec.pets,
alt.pets.ferrets, alt.answers, rec.answers, and news.answers
newsgroups.  It's stored on various internet access systems and BBS's,
including Compuserve and (I think) AOL, and it can be found in either
English or Japanese (possibly a slightly older version) in library3
of the FPETS forum in Japan's NiftyServe system.  For information about

or see the list at Ferret Central
 <http://www.moonsgarden.com/:8080/users/pgreene/> on the WWW.

The FAQ is also available by anonymous FTP in the directory
   ftp://ftp.optics.rochester.edu/pub/pgreene
(that is, ftp to ftp.optics.rochester.edu and cd to the indicated directory).
The files themselves are called part1.faq through part5.faq.

If you don't have access to FTP, or if the server is busy (as it often
is), you can also request the files by mail.  You can receive all five
parts in separate email messages by sending a message to

with the single line (in the body of the message)
GET ANSWERS PACKAGE FERRET
To receive only a single part, instead send a command like
GET ANSWERS PART1 FERRET

The Ferret FAQ is also available on the World Wide Web, as a fully-
indexed, cross-linked set of documents for browsing with Mosaic, lynx,
or a similar WWW client.  Open the URL
<URL:http://www.moonsgarden.com/:8080/users/pgreene/>

and I'll be glad to send you a copy.

------------------------------

Subject: (0.3) Goal of this FAQ

A number of books exist which were written by experts and are intended
to be comprehensive discussions of all sorts of ferret behavior and
medical problems.  This FAQ is not intended to replace any of those.
However, there seemed to be a need for a document which covers many of
the basic questions in a fairly light way.  Originally, this was
intended to be a FAQ in the purest sense of the term: a document to
answer questions which keep coming up in the newsgroups and Ferret
Mailing List.

Over the months, however, the FAQ grew, and its purpose ...

read more »

Archive-name: pets/ferret-faq/part5
Last-modified: 25 Oct 1996
Posting-Frequency: monthly (around the 20th)
Version: 3.1
URL: http://www.moonsgarden.com/:8080/users/pgreene/central.html

FERRET FAQ (part 5 of 5) -- MEDICAL OVERVIEW

Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!

This document is copyright 1994-1996 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section
0.5 (in Part 1, About Ferrets and This FAQ) for authorship information
and redistribution rights.  In short, you can give it away, but you
can't charge for it or include it in any for-profit work without
permission.

The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
wherever you obtained this one.  Most people will want to look at
parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5.  A complete table of
contents for all five files is given in Part 1.  Please at least read
section 0 in Part 1, About this FAQ.  In addition, there are separate
FAQ's for several common ferret diseases.  Information about those is
given in section [1.1].

Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file.  I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

Part 5: MEDICAL OVERVIEW

11. *** Common health problems ***

   (11.1) Common diseases in ferrets
   (11.2) Overview of common health problems
   (11.2.1) Noninfectious
   (11.2.2) Parasitic health problems
   (11.2.3) Infectious diseases
   (11.2.4) Neoplasia (Cancer)

12. *** General medical information ***

   (12.1) What are normal body temperature, *** test results, etc.?
   (12.2) What tests might my vet want to run, and why?
   (12.3) What anesthetic should my vet be using?
   (12.4) Do I need to worry about toxoplasmosis?
   (12.5) How do I care for my sick or recovering ferret?
   (12.6) My ferret won't eat.  What should I do?
   (12.7) What's Duck Soup?  Anyone have a recipe?

13. *** Medical reference material ***

   (13.1) What books can I get or recommend to my vet?
   (13.2) Are there any other useful references?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

11. *** Common health problems ***

------------------------------

Subject: (11.1) Common diseases in ferrets

Once again, I'm not a vet or even a ferret expert, but here's a list
of several of the most common medical problems in ferrets.

Intestinal blockages
   Caused by eating something indigestible, such as an eraser, a
   *** band, some fabrics, or even a good-sized hairball
   (accumulated from grooming), which gets stuck.  Symptoms may
   include (one or more of) lack of bowel movement, constipation,
   bloating, vomiting or heaving, drooling, and others.  Blockages may
   occur at any point in the digestive tract, from the throat through
   the lower intestine, even in the stomach where the object may move
   around and produce only intermittent symptoms.  Laxatone or a
   similar hairball remedy/laxative can help prevent this [6.2].  
   Treatment is surgery, to remove the blockage.  

Tumors or lesions of the adrenal glands
   Symptoms vary, including hair loss spreading from the base of the
   tail forward [10.3], lethargy, loss of appetite, and loss of
   coordination in the hindquarters.  In females, often the most
   prominent sign is an enlarged vulva as in heat.  Often, however, a
   tumor will be present without showing any signs at all, so if your
   ferret is going in for any surgery, the vet should take a look at
   the adrenal glands as well (if time permits -- ferrets lose body
   heat very quickly in surgery).  The left gland seems to be affected
   more often than the right.  More information is available in the
   Ferret Medical FAQ on Adrenal Disease [1.1].

Islet cell tumors (insulinoma)
   These are tumors of insulin-secreting cells in the pancreas.  Their
   main effect is a drop in the *** sugar level, and they are also
   common enough in older ferrets, even without symptoms, that if your
   pet is having surgery for something else, a quick check is
   worthwhile.  Symptoms include lethargy, loss of appetite, wobbly
   gait, and pawing at the mouth; in more severe cases attention
   lapses (staring into space) or seizures may also occur.  If you're
   more than a minute from your vet and your ferret has a low enough
   *** sugar level to be having seizures, call the vet and ask if
   you should rub Karo (corn sugar) syrup or honey on your pet's gums
   to raise it just enough to bring him out of the seizure.  More
   information is available in the Ferret Medical FAQ on Insulinoma
   [1.1].

Lymphoma or lymphosarcoma
   This is a cancer of the lymphatic system.  There are two main
   types, "classic" and juvenile.  Classic lymphoma occurs in older
   ferrets and causes enlarged lymph nodes and irregularities in the
   *** cell count, but often the ferret doesn't show any outward
   signs until the disease has progressed pretty far, at which point
   the ferret suddenly gets very sick.  Conclusive diagnosis is by
   aspiration or biopsy of a lymph node, and treatment is
   chemotherapy.  Juvenile lymphoma is completely different. It
   affects ferrets under 14 months, doesn't generally cause
   enlarged lymph nodes, and hits very hard and fast.  Also see
   the Ferret Medical FAQ on Lymphosarcoma [1.1].

Splenomegaly [enlarged spleen, usually a swelling in the upper abdomen]
   In situations where a neoplasm is not present [this is a common
   symptom of lymphosarcoma], the pros and cons of splenectomy should
   be discussed with your veterinarian.  If an animal simply has a
   large spleen, but shows no signs of illness or discomfort, it is
   safer for the animal to leave it in.  However, if the animal shows
   signs of discomfort, such as lethargy and a poor appetite, or a
   decrease in acty can begin.  These animals also need good nursing
   care to get them back on their food.  Often caused by H. mustelae
   infection (see below).  With proper care - recovery rates are over
   90%.  Also see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Splenomegaly [1.1].

Helicobacter mustelae infection
   A bacterial infection of the stomach lining, Helicobacter
   mustelae is extremely common in ferrets.  Animals with
   long-standing infections (generally older animals), may develop
   gastric problems due to the bacteria's ability to decrease acid
   production in the stomach.  Signs of a problem include repetitive
   vomiting, lack of appetite, and signs of gastric ulcers (see
   above).  Helicobacter infection and gastric ulcers often go hand in
   hand - the relationship between infection and gastric ulcer
   formation has not been totally worked out, although there is
   currently a lot of research in this area.  Also see the
   Ferret Medical FAQ on Gastric Ulcers / Helicobacter mustelae [1.1].

Cutaneous vaccine reactions
   Subcutaneous vaccination with rabies or other vaccines may, over
   a period of weeks, cause a hard lump [10.1] at the site of
   vaccination.  The lump simply consists of a large area of
   inflammation and most commonly are seen around the neck.  The lumps
   can be removed, and generally do not cause a major problem for your
   pet.  Similar lesions may be seen in vaccinated dogs and cats.

------------------------------

Subject: (11.2) Overview of common health problems

All of this section was written by Susan A. Brown, DVM.

Most common health problems of the pet ferret

------------------------------

Subject: (11.2.1) Noninfectious

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

A. GI Foreign Bodies [11.1]

       This is the MOST COMMON cause of wasting and acute abdominal
   disease in the ferret under 1 year of age.  It occurs with less
   frequency in older ferrets.
       Ferrets love to chew and eat *** and "sweaty" objects.  The
   most common foreign bodies we remove are****** pet toys,
   foam ***, insoles and soles of shoes, pipe insulation, chair
   foot protectors, along with towels, cotton balls, plastic, metal,
   and wood.
       Hair balls are VERY COMMON particularly in the ferret 2 years
   of age and older.
       Most foreign bodies remain in the stomach if they are too large
   to pass and cause a slow wasting disease that may last for months.
   (This is the way that most hairballs present.)  However, if the
   foreign material passes out of the stomach and lodges in the small
   intestine, then the pet becomes acutely ill, severely depressed,
   dehydrated, in extreme abdominal pain and finally coma and death
   within 24 to 48 hours if surgery is not performed.
       Other signs that your pet may have a foreign body are pawing at
   the mouth frequently, vomiting (although remember that many pets
   with foreign bodies do not vomit), appetite that goes on and off,
   black tarry stools that come and go.
       Prevention is by use of a cat hairball laxative [6.2] either every
   day or every other day (about 1") and ferret proofing [5.1] your
   house on hands and knees for potential foreign body items.
       Treatment is generally surgery, because if it is too large to
   leave the stomach, it has to come out somehow!  

B. Aplastic Anemia

       A common cause of death of unspayed breeding females.
       The cause is a condition caused by high levels of the hormone
   estrogen that is produced during the heat period which in turn
   suppresses the production of vital red and white
...

read more »

Archive-name: pets/ferret-faq/part4
Last-modified: 9 Sept 1997
Posting-Frequency: monthly (around the 20th)
Version: 3.1.1
URL: http://www.moonsgarden.com/:8080/users/pgreene/central.html

FERRET FAQ (part 4 of 5) -- HEALTH CARE

Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!

This document is copyright 1994-1996 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section
0.5 (in Part 1, About Ferrets and This FAQ) for authorship information
and redistribution rights.  In short, you can give it away, but you
can't charge for it or include it in any for-profit work without
permission.

The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
wherever you obtained this one.  Most people will want to look at
parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5.  A complete table of
contents for all five files is given in Part 1.  Please at least read
section 0 in Part 1, About this FAQ.  In addition, there are separate
FAQ's for several common ferret diseases.  Information about those is
given in section [1.1].

Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file.  I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

Part 4: HEALTH CARE

9. *** Basic health care ***

   (9.1) Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting? Declawing?
   (9.2) What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?
   (9.3) Can I vaccinate my own ferrets?
   (9.4) What kind of checkups should my ferret be having?
   (9.5) What should I look for when I check over my ferret myself?
   (9.6) Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems?
   (9.7) How do I contact Dr. Williams?  I hear he'll help with diagnoses.

10. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

   (10.1) What warning signs of disease should I look for?
   (10.2) My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days.  What's wrong?
   (10.3) My ferret is going bald (tail only or all over).
   (10.4) What are these little (black oily)/(red waxy)/(orange crusty)
          spots on my ferret's tail/skin?
   (10.5) How well do ferrets handle heat?  What about cold?
   (10.6) How can I get rid of these fleas?
   (10.7) How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites?  What do I do about them?
   (10.8) Do I need to worry about heartworms?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

9. *** Basic health care ***

------------------------------

Subject: (9.1) Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting?
               Declawing?

Ferrets intended as pets must be neutered or spayed. Neutering
drastically reduces the odor of a male, prevents him from marking his
territory with smelly slime, and makes him less aggressive (males in
season may kill other ferrets, even females).  Spaying saves a
female's life, since once she goes into heat she will need to be bred
or she will almost certainly die of anemia.  However, many people
disagree with the common practice of performing the surgery at a very
early age, and prefer to wait until the ferret is at least six months
old.  It should be done before the first time the ferret would go into
heat, but apart from that there's no rush.

Breeding ferrets is difficult and time-consuming.  Before even
thinking about breeding, you should have owned ferrets for some years,
be a member of a ferret organization, and find out as much about it as
you can.  The actual mating is rather ***, and jills tend to have
problems giving birth, producing milk, and so forth.  If you're
serious about breeding, talk to someone who has first.  You'll need to
have more than one whole male available (in case your female goes into
heat when your male isn't) and more than one breeding female available
(in case you need a foster mom because your jill has milk problems) --
and be prepared to lose some or all of the kits and perhaps the mom
too.  Grim, but true.  To learn more about breeding or where to find a
good breeder, get a sample copy of the Breeder's Digest by sending
$2.75 to P.O. Box 2371, Leesburg, VA 22075.

There's debate about whether descenting ferrets is necessary or
useful, and some belief that it's harmful.  It's bad for a ferret's
health to descent it before 6 or 7 weeks of age, and it may be
somewhat harmful when done at any age.  Many people feel that the
procedure accomplishes no purpose; that is, that neutered ferrets who
aren't spraying smell the same whether or not they've been descented.
Note that, like a skunk, a ferret will use its scent if it's greatly
distressed or feeling amorous, but ferrets can't spray their scent as
effectively as a skunk, it doesn't smell as bad, and it dissipates in
just a few seconds.  How often a ferret sprays and how bad it smells
depend on the individual ferret, and different people have different
tolerances for the scent, so if given the option you may want to wait
and see if you think descenting is necessary in your particular case.

Most pet stores sell neutered and descented kits.  Many breeders sell
kits which have been neutered but not descented.

Ferrets have nails like dogs, not cats.  They shouldn't be declawed.

------------------------------

Subject: (9.2) What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?

Fervac-D or Fromm-D canine distemper vaccine
    Kits should get three shots, four weeks apart, with the last one
    no earlier than 14 weeks; for example, shots at 8, 12, and 16
    weeks.  (Some vets recommend four shots, three weeks apart,
    instead.  Two is not enough.)  Then a yearly booster shot.
    Although rabies gets more press, the canine distemper vaccine is
    much more important for your ferret's health.

    ***s who have never been vaccinated, or whose vaccination status
    is unknown, should get two canine distemper shots, three weeks
    apart, then yearly boosters.  If you know they've been vaccinated
    within the last year, then one shot is enough.

    If you can't get Fervac-D or Fromm-D, or if your ferret has
    reacted to them in the past, Galaxy-D is an acceptable third
    choice.  If you can't get either of these, you're taking the risk
    that your ferret won't be protected, or worse, that he'll become
    sick from the vaccine.  At least be sure that it's a vaccine for
    canine distemper which is a MODIFIED LIVE virus and was NOT
    cultured in ferret tissue.  Chick embryo culture is best.

Imrab-3 rabies vaccine
    One vaccination at 14-16 weeks, separated from the distemper
    vaccines by 2-3 weeks, then boosters yearly.  This is the same
    rabies vaccine that's used for dogs and cats, so your vet should
    have it around.  It's good for three years in cats, but only one
    year in ferrets, mainly because the company hasn't done tests to
    see how long it lasts in ferrets.  This is the only rabies vaccine
    approved for ferrets.

Comments

    Ferrets do not need to be vaccinated for feline distemper or
    parvo.  They don't need a 5-way dog vaccine.

    They can contract Bordatella (a common cause of kennel cough in
    dogs), but it's very rare, and the effectiveness of the vaccine is
    unknown in ferrets.  Don't vaccinate for it unless you'll be
    boarding your ferrets at a kennel, and possibly not even then.
    The intranasal Bordatella vaccine has been known to give ferrets
    the disease.

    It's best to give the distemper and rabies vaccines be spaced a
    couple of weeks apart, since giving them at the same time seems to
    increase the chances of an adverse reaction (see below).

    If you want to change a ferret's vaccination schedule, for
    instance to move all your pets to the same schedule, you can
    safely give another vaccination as long as it's been at least a
    month since the last one.

    Most states don't recognize the rabies vaccine for ferrets,
    because official studies of virus shedding time in ferrets are yet
    to be done.  This means that even if your ferret is vaccinated, it
    may be destroyed if someone reports to the authorities that they
    were bitten.  However, having the vaccination may keep the person
    from reporting a bite in the first place, and of course it will
    protect your ferrets from getting rabies.  (Even closely watched
    ferrets do occasionally escape [8.9].)

Vaccine reactions

Like any other animals, ferrets occasionally have adverse reactions to
vaccinations, typically on the second or third exposure to a
particular vaccine. Reactions are rare, and giving the rabies and
distemper vaccinations two weeks apart is thought to reduce the
chance, but they can be life-threatening.

There are several kinds of vaccine reactions.  The most dangerous,
anaphylactic reactions, usually occur within an hour after the
vaccination.  You may want to stay at your vet's for 30-60 minutes
after a vaccination, just in case.  Watch for vomiting, diarrhea or
loss of bladder/bowel control; signs of nausea or dizziness; dark
bluish-purple blotches spreading under the skin; difficulty breathing;
pale or bright pink gums, ears, feet or nose; seizures, convulsions,
or passing out; or anything else that's alarming -- bad reactions are
hard to miss.  Get the ferret back to the vet right away, probably for
a shot of antihistamine (Benedryl) and perhaps a corticosteroid or
epinephrine.  Ferrets who have had mild to moderate anaphylactic
reactions to a particular vaccine can be pre-treated with an
antihistamine ...

read more »

Archive-name: pets/ferret-faq/part2
Last-modified: 25 Oct 1996
Posting-Frequency: monthly (around the 20th)
Version: 3.1
URL: http://www.moonsgarden.com/:8080/users/pgreene/central.html

FERRET FAQ (part 2 of 5) -- FERRET CARE

Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!

This document is copyright 1994-1996 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section
0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and
redistribution rights.  In short, you can give it away, but you can't
charge for it or include it in any for-profit work without permission.

The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
wherever you obtained this one.  Most people will want to look at
parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5.  A complete table of
contents for all five files is given in Part I.  Please at least read
section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ.  In addition, there are separate
FAQ's for several common ferret diseases.  Information about those is
given in section [1.1].

Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file.  I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

Part 2: FERRET CARE

4. *** Getting a pet ferret ***

   (4.1) Which color is the best?  Male or female?  What age?
   (4.2) How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?
   (4.3) Where can I get a pet ferret?  What should I look for?
   (4.4) What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear?  What's
         the deal with Marshall Farms?
   (4.5) How do I introduce a new ferret to my established one(s)?
   (4.6) Will my ferret get along with my other pets?

5. *** Getting ready for your ferret ***

   (5.1) How can I best ferretproof my home?  What do I need to
         worry about?
   (5.2) How can I protect my carpet, plants, or couch?
   (5.3) What will I need to take care of my new ferret?
   (5.4) Do I need a cage?  Where can I get one?  How should I set it up?
   (5.5) Any suggestions on toys?
   (5.6) What kind of collar/bell/tag/leash should I use?

6. *** Ferret supplies ***

   (6.1) What should I feed my ferret?
   (6.2) Should I give my ferret any supplements?
   (6.3) What are good treats?
   (6.4) What kind of litter should I use?
   (6.5) Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

4. *** Getting a pet ferret ***

------------------------------

Subject: (4.1) Which color is the best?  Male or female?  What age?

As with people, a ferret's inherent personality is more important than
color or gender.  Nevertheless, there is some thought that cinnamon
ferrets tend to be more docile than other colors, probably because
it's a recent addition to the list of colors, so most of them have
been bred from long-time pet stock.  Basically, though, choose the
color according to your own preference.

There's no consistent personality difference between a (neutered) male
and a female.  Males are generally considerably larger, around 18" and
3-5 pounds (that's 45 cm and 1.3 to 2.3 kg, in the US; European-bred
ferrets differ a bit) compared to 15" and 1-3 pounds (40 cm and 0.5 to
1.3 kg) for females.  Males' heads are usually wider, which can give
them a more cat-like appearance.  If you're getting an unneutered
ferret, bear in mind that the cost to spay a female can be higher than
the cost to neuter a male.  (Unless you're specifically planning to
breed them, you will NEED to "alter" your pets [9.1].)

There are two contradictory opinions regarding what age ferret is best
for a new owner.  ***s tend to be a bit calmer and may already be
litter- and nip-trained [7.2] [7.1], but they are larger and may have
acquired bad habits, too.  Kits are very cute, and their small size
and (for a young kit) sleepiness can be less intimidating for a new
owner, but they require a little more care and training and will
become very active before too long.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.2) How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?

Ferrets don't need other ferrets to be happy, but if you won't be
around much, two or more will keep each other company.  They'll also
be more fun, but more responsibility.  Many people have three, five or
more ferrets, which may be more fun than you can take. :-)

I'd recommend getting one at first, so you can get to know it, and it
you.  There's some advantage to only having to train one at a time,
too.  I'd suggest at least a few months between them, if you're going
to get several, although it's certainly not necessary.  If you decide
you want more later, you can always get another; they usually get along
just fine [4.5].  There's no problem mixing (neutered) ferrets of
either gender in any combination.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.3) Where can I get a pet ferret?  What should I look for?

Many pet stores have ferrets, and there are often ads in the newspaper
placed by small breeders [1.2] with kits to sell or people who want to
sell older ferrets.  

You can also often find "rescue" ferrets at the local animal shelter,
and there are shelters specifically for ferrets scattered around the
country as well [1.2].  This may not be the best choice for a new
owner, though, since rescue ferrets may have health or behavi***
problems.  (Many of them are healthy and loving, but if you've never
dealt with any ferrets before you may not want to take the chance.)

In any case, look for bright, clear eyes, healthy skin and whiskers,
soft coat, and a curious, alert attitude.  You can't tell just how a
kit's colorings will turn out, but if you watch and handle a group for
a while you can tell a surprising amount about their personalities.
Young kits will generally be pretty sleepy and uncoordinated, but
they'll grow out of that soon enough.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.4) What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear?
               What's the deal with Marshall Farms?

If your ferret has two blue dots tattooed in his right ear, chances
are he's from Marshall Farms, a large breeder located in Western New
York.  Marshall Farms (MF) has been the subject of some controversy
because they sell ferrets to laboratories as well as for pets.  Some
people feel that MF's efforts to produce ferrets for lab use might
have resulted in their pets being genetically less healthy, but
there's no evidence to support that.  In fact, for many types of
research, genetically diverse animals are needed.

Several other breeders also mark dots in their kits' ears, so a
tattooed ferret may not be from MF.  Regardless, Marshall Farms
ferrets are no less deserving of good homes and love than their
unmarked kin, whatever your opinions about the establishment that bred
them.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

    There has been a lot of rumors going around recently concerning
    Marshall Farms ferrets.  I'm not sure where they got started, but
    let's try to put this subject to bed.

    Sure, Marshall Farms ferrets develop tumors.  So do ALL ferrets
    [11.2.4]. We don't know why ferrets develop most tumors - we know
    that they are most likely to develop them between the ages of 4
    and 6, but not why.  But it is certainly not Marshall Farms'
    responsibility when a ferret that they sold two years ago develops
    a tumor...  To my knowledge - there are no inherent "defects" with
    Marshall Farms ferrets.  Don't get me wrong - I know that Marshall
    Farms is the biggest breeder of laboratory as well as pet ferrets.
    I don't condone laboratory research on ferrets, or other animals
    for that matter and I don't do any.  But I have never seen any
    problems with Marshall Farms ferrets that I could relate to
    Marshall Farms.

Jeff Johnston, an epidemiologist (though not a ferret vet), adds:

    The bigger risk for so-called "congenic" animals is not cancer,
    which seems to be the alleged association with MF ferrets, but
    infectious disease since a microbe that is seriously infectious to
    one animal, will be equally infectious to all.  And I haven't
    heard anyone report that MF ferrets are more susceptible to
    infectious disease than other ferrets.

    I don't believe that the evidence exists to convict Marshall Farms
    of breeding ferrets with defects.  And now that so many
    allegations have been lobbed against them, the information
    gathered about MF ferrets is almost certainly biased.  This
    happens all the time in the epidemiology of genetic diseases.  A
    particular defect occurs twice in a family--perhaps
    coincidentally--and the family and their doctors go out of their
    way to look for it.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.5) How do I introduce a new ferret to my established one(s)?

[This section was written by Kelleen Andrews, with contributions from
me and others.  Thanks, Kelleen!]

*** fighting is normal in ferret introductions. The severity can
range from nearly nonexistent to all-out war.  Prepare for the worst,
and then anything less than that will seem like a piece of cake!
Patience is the most important virtue.  Often all is well in 3-14 days
but sometimes peace is not achieved for 3, 5, or even 7 months.
Ferrets that have been away from other ferrets for two years or more
tend to take longer to adapt.  Keep in mind that your final goal is
well worth the ...

read more »

Archive-name: pets/ferret-faq/part3
Last-modified: 25 Oct 1996
Posting-Frequency: monthly (around the 20th)
Version: 3.1
URL: http://www.moonsgarden.com/:8080/users/pgreene/central.html

FERRET FAQ (part 3 of 5) -- TRAINING AND BEHAVIOR

Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!

This document is copyright 1994-1996 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section
0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and
redistribution rights.  In short, you can give it away, but you can't
charge for it or include it in any for-profit work without permission.

The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
wherever you obtained this one.  Most people will want to look at
parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5.  A complete table of
contents for all five files is given in Part I.  Please at least read
section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ.  In addition, there are separate
FAQ's for several common ferret diseases.  Information about those is
given in section [1.1].

Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file.  I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

Part 3: TRAINING AND BEHAVIOR

7. *** Basic ferret care and training ***

   (7.1) How do I train my pet not to nip?
   (7.2) I'm having problems litter-training.  What do I do?
   (7.3) How can I stop my ferret from digging in his food or water?
   (7.4) Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping?

8. *** Things ferrets say and do ***

   (8.1) What games do ferrets like to play?
   (8.2) Can I teach my ferret tricks?  How?
   (8.3) My ferret trembles a lot.  Is that normal?
   (8.4) My ferret is losing hair!
   (8.5) Is he really just asleep?
   (8.6) What does such-and-such a noise mean?
   (8.7) What else should I probably not worry about?
   (8.8) Do ferrets travel well?
   (8.9) Help!  My ferret is lost!

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

7. *** Basic ferret care and training ***

------------------------------

Subject: (7.1) How do I train my pet not to nip?

Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip.  A
ferret which has been bred to be a pet shouldn't be vicious or bite,
but ferret play does include mock combat, and young ones won't know
how hard they can put their teeth on you without hurting you.  A
playing ferret may run at you with his mouth open or even put his
teeth on your hand, but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you
need to discipline him.  Just remember, ferrets aren't malicious, they
just need to learn what behavior is acceptable.

Sometimes a ferret which has been mistreated will bite out of fear, or
an older ferret might bite because of pain, either in the mouth or
elsewhere.  In either of these cases, strict discipline isn't going to
do any good.  For an abused ferret, try one of the alternatives
mentioned below, and have a lot of patience: the ferret has to learn
to trust someone when all it has known before is abuse.  For an animal
in pain, of course, take it to the vet.

In all cases, positive reinforcement (giving treats [6.3]) works much
better than punishment.  Similarly, don't set the ferret down when he
struggles and nips -- you'll be teaching him that that's the way to
get what he wants.  Finally, whichever method you use, consistency and
immediacy are very important.

Flicking the ferret's nose while his teeth are on you is a pretty
common form of discipline, but it might not be the best.  Yor ferret
might end up associating you with bad things rather than good ones.
Also, it's a very bad idea to use nose-tapping or other physical
discipline on a ferret who has been mistreated or who acts unusually
aggressive or frightened.  There are several alternatives, which you
might want to try in combination:

   If the ferret is biting too hard in play, try using a signal he
   already understands: a high-pitched "Yip!" (or "Hey!" or whatever),
   like the noise one kit makes when another is playing too roughly.

   Stopping the game by gently pinning the ferret down until he gets
   bored can work well, too.

   Confining the misbehaving ferret to a cage [5.4] and ignoring him
   for a few minutes can be very effective, especially if there's
   another ferret wandering around conspicuously having fun.

   You can cover your hands with Bitter Apple, either the spray or the
   paste, so nipping tastes bad.

   Some people have had good luck with either pushing a finger into
   the ferret's mouth (sideways, behind the back teeth) or holding the
   mouth open from behind (being careful not to ***the ferret)
   immediately after a bite.  Most ferrets find either of these
   uncomfortable, and it associates the unpleasant feeling with the
   taste of finger.

   Those ferrets who go limp when scruffed generally hate it.  You
   might also shake the ferret by the scruff, or drag him along the
   floor while you hiss.  Both these mimic the way mother ferrets
   reprimand their kits.  Obviously, don't be so rough that you hurt
   him.  You can also cover his face with your hand, which he probably
   won't like.

------------------------------

Subject: (7.2) I'm having problems litter-training.  What do I do?

Start your ferret out in a small area, perhaps his cage [5.4], and
expand his space gradually as he becomes better trained.  Keep a
little dirty litter in his pan at first, to mark it as a bathroom and
to deter him from digging in it.  Don't let it get too dirty, though;
some ferrets can be pretty finicky about their pans.  Most ferrets
won't mess up their beds or food, so put towels or food bowls in all
the non-litter corners until your ferret is used to making the effort
to find a pan.

Ferrets generally use their pans within fif*** minutes of waking up,
so make sure yours uses the pan before you let him out.  When he's out
running around for playtime, keep a close eye on him, and put him in
his litter pan every half hour or so, or whenever you see him "pick up
a magazine and start to back into a corner" (as one FML subscriber put
it).  

Whenever your ferret uses a litterpan, whether you had to carry him to
it or not, give him lots of praise and a little treat [6.3] right away.  
Ferrets will do almost anything for treats, and they're fast learners.
Within a few days, your ferret will probably be faking using the pan,
just to get out of the cage or get a treat.  That's okay; at least it
reinforces the right idea.

Positive reinforcement (treats and praise) are usually much more
effective than any punishment, but if you need one, use cage time.
Rubbing the ferret's nose in his mess won't do any good.  He can't
connect it to it being in the wrong place, and ferrets sniff their
litter pans anyway.  As with all training, consistency and immediacy
are crucial.  Don't bother caging a ferret for a mistake that's hours
old.

If your ferret's favorite corner isn't yours, you have a few choices.
could put a pan (or newspaper, if it's a tight spot) in it; ferrets
have short legs and attention spans, so you'll probably need several
pans around your home anyway.  Otherwise, try putting a crumpled towel
or a food bowl in the well-cleaned corner, making it look more like a
bedroom or kitchen than a latrine.

"Accident" corners should be cleaned with bleach or another
bad-smelling disinfectant (don't let your ferret onto it 'till it
dries!), specifically so they don't continue to smell like ferret
bathrooms but also as a general deterrent.  For the same reason, you
probably shouldn't clean litter pans with bleach, certainly not the
same one you're using as a deterrent elsewhere.

Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there
is individual variation.  Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their
pans as most cats, so there will be an occasional accident.  Even
well-trained ferrets tend to lose track of their litter pans when
they're particularly frightened or e***d, or if they're in a new
house or room.  In general you can expect at least a 90% "hit" rate,
though some ferrets just don't catch on as well and some do
considerably better.  At least ferrets are small, so their accidents
are pretty easy to clean up.

Finally, if your ferret seems to have completely forgotten all about
litter pans, you might need to retrain him by confining him to a
smaller area or even a cage for a week or so and gradually expanding
his space as he catches on again.

------------------------------

Subject: (7.3) How can I stop my ferret from digging in his food or water?

A lot of ferrets like to dig in their food or water bowls.  If the
bowls are in contained areas and the ferrets are willing to eat off
the floor, the easiest solution is to provide a back-up water bottle
and ignore the digging.  You can also put the bowls in larger pans to
contain the mess; use two pans, so the spilled food doesn't get soggy
and spoil.

Heavy bowls that angle inward can help, or for more diligent
water-bowl diggers, you can switch to a bottle.  Likewise, some people
find that a J-type rabbit feeder works well for food, though others
find that just gives their ferrets a lot more food to joyfully spread
around the room.  Another nearly dig-proof design is to put the food
in a covered plastic Tupperware-type container and cut a hole in the
top just big enough for the ferret's head.
...

read more »

I am researching information on ferrets for a site I work on called
http://www.petgalaxy.com, we have hardly any info on ferrets and I'd
like to change that.  I've been reading up; I know a lot of people who
own them and their supplying photos, but I feel the most useful source
of information are from these newsgroups.  So if anyone would like to
send in tips on the care and upbringing of ferrets, breeders, funny
stories, etc, it would be greatly appreciated, and we will list your
name (if you want), next to the tip you send us.  Please email KIM at