Quote:
> Hi, I own a Jungle Carpet Python and would like to know other people's
> experiences with these specific pythons. My carpet is only two months
> old. I did have a very hard time, getting him on a feeding schedual. If
> anyone can give me tips about their enclouser ect.
I own Queensland Carpets, but I'm unaware of any differential
husbandry requirements for the subspecies you request. Small
pythons must absorb thier yolk sacs prior to feeding
regularly. This may take up to 3 months after hatching, and
although you should see the umbilicus (belly button), you may
not see any evidence of the yolk sac. Unless there's something
else going on, anorexia for a month or two shouldn't be a
problem for the snake.
I got mine to start feeding (usually the hardest part) by
waiting until after a shed, then offering a pinkie rat or
mouse. When this didn't work, I used tongs to *gently* tap
(i.e. annoy) the snake with the prey animal. This works best
with light taps on the snake's nose (hence the need for tongs).
The snake made a defensive strike at the prey animals, and
then seemed to say "Mmm...not half bad!" Has been feeding
voraciously since then. Key: don't stress the snake by
bugging it too much if it's not hungry. Other key: if the
animal appears to lose weight or become lethargic, get it to a
good herp vet fast.
These animals are very arboreal (tree climbing) as youngsters;
less so as ***s. I have my juvenile in a 10 g. Critter Cage
which is turned so as to be vertically oriented
(make sure lid is VERY tight to avoid escapes). It has an
undertank heater on one side, a water bath on the other, a hide
box, and a branch. He spends most of his time perched on the
branch, or digesting new meals in the hidebox over the heater.
My *** never climbs, but has basically the same apparatus in
a 45 g. aquarium.
Good luck!
--
David M. Sibell, MD University of ***ia Dept. of Anesthesiology
(804) 971-1467